Saturday, September 29, 2012

Nelson Lagoon, Alaska: My Quest for the Mighty Pacific Eider

My love for Alaska and waterfowling will collide again in early November 2012. Still with vivd memories from Alaska's Pribilof Islands and Saint Paul, my memories often take me back to one of the most spectacular places and trips I have ever been on. It is etched into my soul forever and now with my mounted Kings back from from my gunning mate Tom Attaway and Shane Smith of Artistic Compositions Taxidermy....each and every time I walk past them that thought is reinforced.


King Eider Taxidermy by Tom Attaway
 
 
Tom cast the large rock, added the snow and icicles, hand built the case and meticulously hand painted the dark, cold gray skies that frequent Saint Paul Island. In the top right corner you can see the cross of the Russian Orthodox Church which is ever prevelant all over the island as it is what the native Aleuts practice overwhelmingly. The drake is standing looking out over the Bering Sea as the hen prepares to swallow a sea urchin. Just a world class beautiful piece of art!!!!!!
 
 
 
 
King Eider Taxidermy by Shane Smith of Artistic Compositions Taxidermy
2007 World Champion - Ocellated Turkeys
 
My other two King drakes rounding out my limit of four in 2011 were mounted World Champion Taxidermist Shane Smith. The top piece is a drake riding a Bering Sea wave with the decoy I hand carved coming up the front side. Hard to see is the actual St. Paul black volcanic sand and the feet of the big King swimming up the wave. Museum quality work no doubt!!
 
The bottom piece is the largest of the drake Kings I took while on Saint Paul. Just a massive speciman simply standing on a rock that frozen over with ice, black volcanic sand and crusteaceans and algae native to Saint Paul Island. You have no idea how large this bird is. I still remember vividly the morning I killed it on Seal Lion Neck with my guide and resident of Saint Paul, Dustin Jones. One of the absolute greatest days of waterfowling career no doubt!
 
 
And although I will return the Pribilofs in the near future......first in November of 2012 I'm making the trek to Nelson Lagoon, AK on the Alaskan Peninsula. My quarry this trip will the largest of all the North American ducks: The Common Pacific Eider (V-Nigra). My friend and hunting buddy Tom Attaway will spend a couple of weeks in the "Great Land" chasing Alaskan seaducks and enjoying life.
 
Although I am in the preparation mode of this trip, including carving another decoy; a Pacific Eider.....this post will officially kick off my blog for this trip. God I love Alaska!!!!!!
 
 
 
Our destination....
 
 
Our temporary Alaskan home on Nelson.......
 
 
Our quarry for the chase.......
 
 
My friend......probably enjoys this sickness more than I do!! I could not ask for a better traveling gunning partner!!
 
Soon the trek will begin......follow me as I once again venture to the "Great Land" chasing seaducks!!
 
 
 



 

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Gear List for King Eider Hunts on Saint Paul Island

Since my return from Alaska’s Pribilof’s on Saint Paul Island, I have been contacted by several gentlemen with my assessment and what kind of gear was required. The following is a list I compiled of not only specific gear but integral items of the hunt that include trip insurance, baggage and ballistics.


Clothing – Having a washer and dryer are HUGE help on this trip. This cuts down on the number of regular clothes and under garments you need to bring.


You will be staying in Anchorage at least one day prior flying out to Saint Paul. I would wear something comfortable to fly in such as old jeans or sweats to include a hooded sweat shirt. You necessarily do not need a coat or jacket as you can wear your parka or parka liner while out on the island in non-hunting situations. Other than that throw a few pair of underwear, a couple of t-shirts, and a couple pair of regular cotton socks; remember you’re going to Alaska in the dead of winter to hunt…..not party or dine in fine eating establishments. As stated, you can wash clothes when you need to stay fresh.


Layering Garments – It’s cold on Saint Paul, but not unbearable in my opinion. The temperature feels colder when the wind howls off the Bering Sea. Other than that; you damn sure want to stay dry (or at least do your best to).


If you can afford it; but at least two pair of the best long underwear in your price range, layering should be a common for seasoned waterfowlers. From there I took two pair of fleece wader liners, three pair of thin type sock liners, three pair wool socks and a wool camo sweater lined with Windshear. Proper outer garments (listed next) rounded out the selection for a comfortable hunt out of the boat or land points.


Outer Garments – Anyone even thinking about this trip should already have a nice pair of heavy, neoprene boot waders, waterproof parka and liner to go with it. The only suggestion I have is to get a nice pair of 5mm waders with the heavily insulated boots; this gives your toes wiggle room to keep the blood flowing and to keep warm.


Hands and Face – I’m about half Polar bear and do not get cold easily. For my head I wear a wool stocking cap or the new tight looking fleece skull caps. For my neck area I use a fleece neck gaiter. These can also be pulled up over the ears and nose for taffy asses!!! Haha!! Every high end parka should have an insulated hood with it or you can use a waterproof bomber type hat as well.


As far as gloves; you absolutely cannot go wrong with the Atlas brand commercial fishing gloves. There are several types and they are inexpensive; but better yet are always pliable and waterproof. I brought three pair of these with me just in case the liners got wet or I got flogged by a Bering Sea wave which will happen out of the boat and or on land……trust me! I don’t remember the model numbers off hand but I prefer the black ones with the heavy lining. They are warm and you can shoot with them easily. These can be purchased here: http://www.seattlemarine.net/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=1783&idcategory=982


Shotguns – Although I have a large variety of waterfowling shotguns; I chose to take both of my Remington pumps, 870 XCS and 887 to Saint Paul with me. I left all the high end Italian autos at home for this trip but several of my gunning mates used theirs with much success and no malfunctions. Unless you don’t unpack your guns; they are going to get soaking inside and out with freezing, heavily salted Bering Sea water. When the wind blows you can have the possibility of volcanic sand on and in it as well. Take a basic gun cleaning kit with non-aerosol cleaners and oils. Trust me…you will need to break your shotgun daily and clean it thoroughly. Just wiping it down will result in heartache when you see what sea water does to them overnight. Rust grows quickly and I saw screw in chokes become permanent while I was there. It’s pretty much common sense gun maintenance. When that King drake flies by you need to remember you didn’t spend big bucks and fly half away around the world to miss or have a malfunction due to gun care neglect.


Ammunition -   This part of my “list” may cause heartburn with some of you but it’s the way I feel about buying cheap ass steel loads versus good, high density, nontoxic waterfowling loads and the proper chokes to use it with. I have seen the other guys from years and what they shot and that’s fine…..I’m just gonna pass on how I prepared for and what I brought for this trip. You’re going to kill King Eiders to mount as trophies; why in the hell would want to shoot goose type loads at them and rip them to shreds in the process?? I used Remington HD Tungsten #6’s and took one box of #4’s. I also, with the help of a good friend, took hand loaded Tungsten Super Shot (TSS) in #7 shot and #5 shot. I patterned both my shotguns using these loads here at home before Ieaving to know exactly what I was dealing with. With the TSS I had a 30 in. pattern at over 50 yards out of an improved cylinder, titanium choke. When you hunt off the land points you have to hunt with the wind in your face to be able to have the surf wash your birds back to land to retrieve. I was expecting 45+ yard shots into fierce winds and one day it was; but in the same breath my best day land hunting was shooting Kings at less than 20 yards so I had to adjust accordingly. I found the Remington HD to have patterned closely to the TSS so I was confident with either load and or chokes. Sure they are expensive loads but with horrible weather approaching which could have locked us in the camp for days; I took a shot at my first King which was easily 60+ yards out flying away from us with a 2 ¾ TSS #5 and dropped it like a rock. Steel #2’s aint gonna do that…………..! Take what you want or call it overkill but I had zero cripples in my week of hunting the island.


Odds & Ends – These may sound simple to you but some of the most important pieces of gear I ended bringing I never saw on anyone’s list.


Full length White Waterproof Parka – Here at home in Texas we hunt snow geese out of spread regularly. I was already equipped with a Hodgman full length parka while you sit on the water’s edge awaiting passing flocks of Kings. It was light enough to put over my parka yet waterproof and better blocked the howling wind. Not to mention…it snows like a bitch on Saint Paul in January so you blend in.


Padded Seat Cushion (Boat Seat) – I cannot begin to tell you how important this piece of equipment is in my opinion. You sit for long periods of time on volcanic rocks and your ass will get numb without it. I left mine at Charlie’s camp for future hunters to use so have at it  when you get there.

Removable Ice Spikes (Wader Boots) – I’d say these aren’t a must but can help when walking to the land points after you leave the vehicle. These rocks are slippery already and then get frozen sea spray piled up on them. I busted my ass more than once without them. Like I say….not a must but can be helpful.


Goggles – This was the best investment I made for my trip Saint Paul. There is absolutely no way you are NOT going to get flogged by waves of sea water in the boat or on the land. You can sit in one spot on NE Point for 45 minutes and be fine and then out of nowhere get totally drenched by a wall of salt water. You can’t go wrong with goggles no matter what you kind get. I chose what the troops are wearing in winter combat situations; you can find them online.


Bits & Pieces – Here’s a couple of bits of info I wanted to pass along not really hunting related except for maybe one small suggestion.


First off…….you’re going to want to collect habitat for mounts while you are there.


Secondly……Saint Paul has a Post Office; go to the store in town and get some boxes and tape and mail home items like waders, parkas, or dirty clothes that can wait. It takes a while to get home (3 weeks or so) but you will lighten your load tremendously for the flights home. No sense in paying these huge overweight bag fees because if it works out; you should have big, frozen, heavy Kings to take home as well.


On that note…..besides my rolling duffel and my rolling Cabela’s traveling gun case; I brought a 72 qt. cooler for my third piece of luggage. It protects items from being crushed and it serves to haul your birds back home in. I was the only one in my group that didn’t pack their birds on carry on luggage. I packed my birds as well stuffed my parka liner in there and after 4 flights and over 24 hours later on returning home my birds were still frozen solid. When you check your cooler in on departure; tell the employee to put “Must Go” or “Frozen Items” stickers on your cooler. It’s normally neon in color and the baggage handlers take care of it accordingly.


One note on the gun case……pack as much of your shotgun shells inside your gun case as you possibly can (Alaska Airlines allows 50 lbs. of ammo per person). This avoids them from randomly opening up and ransacking your other luggage.


Everything else your outfitter of choice will tell you to get or do before leaving your home state to head to Alaska.



Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Hell Hath No Fury Like the Bering Sea

The last day of the hunt and our scheduled day to leave the island to go back to Anchorage to prepare to go our respective homes; a winter storm from hell blows in! With snow and ice being pushed around with sustained winds of 45+ gusting to over 60 mph; needless to say our flight gets canceled. OK……no big deal. Earlier in the day we enjoyed our last hunt in which I got to spend on a lagoon outside of the harbor where the Harlequin and Oldsquaw like to loaf. As luck would have it with the cold and wind starting to blow before the big storm; the birds didn’t move accordingly. I sat and talked with Capt. Russ, another decoy carver and more advanced than I, and I ended up taking only the second Black (Common) Scoter during the season and a nice bull to boot!!! So…..the next scheduled flight off the island on day two is at midnight. With the wind still howling…….yep; flight canceled again!!! Hmmm….OK. As much fun as I was having; all of us had jobs, families and homes to go back to. Needless to say; most of us had everything packed and I think all of us shipped items back home so the airlines wouldn’t charge us the gouge rate with luggage. As is normal in life and humanity; a little bit of cabin fever set in with the crew of Week 4 in 2011. We were all ready to go and there were hunters sitting in Anchorage, Charlie’s last group of the year, which were ready to get to the island and hunt. Finally the fourth morning……PenAir calls and tells us things are shaping up and there are two planes coming to the island for departures back to Anchorage. Moods improved and we helped pack up the boat and gear as the other hunters decided they would roll over into next season. Once some of the native Aleuts knew we were stranded; we would be treated to home cooked meals by them which included deep fried Halibut one night and seal meat the next. They are the only people that can legally hunt them for food. I was honored that they would give us a little bit of their culture and cooking. We got to Anchorage and four us had flights departing later the next day as two got on redeye’s that night. We secured our birds in the freezer at the motel and after all of us got good nights sleep; the next day we enjoyed breakfast close the hotel and dinner at a real nice place in Anchorage. After we ate we looked through some upscale gift shops and outdoor clothing stores as well as toured the famous annual ice sculptures in downtown Anchorage. Later that night I was the first of the last four to leave for home so the journey had officially ended for me. After four flights from Saint Paul to Anchorage, Anchorage to Seattle, then 6 hours later Seattle to Chicago, then finally Chicago to Houston, I arrived home 24 hours later.

Although I was ready to head home, it didn’t take me long to miss Alaska. I absolutely love it and am already looking forward to planning my next Alaskan Adventure within the next two years hopefully. Saint Paul is a fascinating place and I intend to see it again……as I stated earlier; I have to.

This trip was just what the doctor ordered after the year I had last year. There is absolutely no place I’d rather be than Alaska to hunt, sleep, eat, explore and make new friends in the process. I still want to go back and hopefully read all my posts on my Facebook page as it was a way to stay in touch with my family and friends as well share my feelings of things I had gotten to see as well as pass on as each goal of my trip was reached. From what I understand by the some of comments I got and people I’ve talked to since I returned…..it was quite entertaining.

Farewell my friends……until my next flight leaves for the “Great Land” again hopefully someday sooner than I expect. Somewhere out there floating in the Bering Sea is a big, bull Pacific Eider drake with my name on it!!!!!!

Look at the top of the waves being blown backwards!

The Crab Fleet anchored behind the leeward side of the island avoiding the 60+ mph winds.



Hard to tell but these are probably 12-15 footers if not more!



Some kind of monument behind the duck camp; it's written in Russian.

Sunday, March 27, 2011

One of the now famous “Deadliest Catch” Crab Boats……the F/V Time Bandit

After filling my limit on Kings and a hearty lunch prepared by Deb; I get ready to surf the internet as we had no cell phone service and the dish on the TV was damaged in storm so that was out upstairs where the hunters stay. No sooner than I sit down with a cold Alaskan Amber……Capt. Russ comes in and says get your jacket; the Time Bandit is in the harbor loading pots. My first thought……you’re kidding!!!! From Charlie’s camp you can see clearly see the harbor, cannery and any crab boat that comes in to offload. Sure enough……there she was at the end of the dock sporting the solid black paint job and famous skull and crossbones of the Hillstrand’s Time Bandit. We all hopped in the truck to see and hopefully meet the crew and at least get some pictures of her. No sooner than we had opened up the doors; one of the deck hands Travis invited us on board. They already had 75 pots soaking and bought some more that were stacked behind the docks from a previous boat. You all have no idea how excited I got when out of the wheelhouse door comes Captains Andy and Johnathon Hillstrand to say hello!!!!!! We toured the deck but could not stay long due to the fact they had the boom in the air swinging 700 lb. crab pots all over as they loaded them; but I did get my few minutes of a dream to work on a crab boat as it is a young man’s occupation and not for the aging and “portly”; but they obliged and I couldn’t have been happier. I got to move around three shots of line (33 feet long each and weigh about 80 lbs). All the deck hands couldn’t help but to laugh as they could see the determination and excitement on my face. After that we spent a good hour in the wheelhouse with Captains Andy and Johnathon. We heard fishing stories, jokes, saw how the new computerized system on board helped them with weather and tracks where they drop gear. Signs of the Discovery Channel were all over as cameras were strategically placed all over the boat. In ending……I had to tell the Hillstrands both how I much I appreciated and enjoyed the episodes in which they would go to where their mariner father was buried and honor him with seal bombs going off on deck. Johnathon grabbed a couple and set them off scaring the bejeesuz out of the crew on deck which would turn to laughter. I fricking the love these guys. If I would have known about this 20 years ago I would have loved to have given it a shot. It’s my personality to a tee!!!!!!

I just want to pass along with having met a lot of fishermen from different boats and seeing the boats and everything that’s involved; that TV doesn’t do justice to what’s actually involved and how hard these guys work. These are some tough sonsabitches that work their asses off to feed their families. While we there; a deckhand came in and landed in the Saint Paul Medical Center with his tibia and fibula broken completely in two and flew from the island back to Anchorage with us with no pain killers or nothing; only his leg cast with a splint temporarily until he could get home to Seattle to have it set. These guys are cowboy type tough in my opinion……badasses!!!!! When we finally got to leave the island after the big storm passed; I met a retired fisherman/boat captain that was hired to be the skipper of what they call a “chase boat” for the Discovery Channel. These guys follow the all the boats on the show and film them from the sea to get that perspective. A super nice guy that I talked to a long time about a lot of things other than fishing and Deadliest Catch. We exchanged phone numbers and I intend to stay in touch with Mike……..

Please note: The Opilio crab in this series of pics were not taken off of the F/V Time Bandit. They were loading more crab pots to fish with while in the harbor.